New Delhi, March 21 -- I have never eaten at Papa's in Bandra, Mumbai, the 12-seater chef's table run by chef Hussain Shahzad that was recently named one of Time magazine's World's Greatest Places 2025, but during a recent visit to Veronica's, above which Papa's is perched like a secret little hidey-hole, I did get a tour of the space. It was mid-morning, and the chef was prepping for the 13-course dinner he serves Wednesday through Saturday. "This is the calm before the madness," he said, flicking a checkered towel over his shoulder and diving into the tiny kitchen.

Just like Mordor, one does not simply walk into Papa's. Spots at the table are reserved months in advance (right now, they are booked through April, while reservations for M...