New Delhi, Feb. 14 -- "Om gatey gatey, paragatey, parasamgatey bodhi svaha". The Bodhisattva vow mantra is a favourite of mine, not just because of its spiritual import but also because of just how relentlessly propulsive it is. I chant it under my breath whenever I'm hiking in the mountains. It helps regulate my breath, keeps my pace even, and anchors me in the present, mindful of the stunning landscapes I'm passing through.

Last month, I was chanting it again as I hiked the forest ridge from Kaluk to Rinchenpong in west Sikkim, always in sight of the Kangchenjunga massif basking in the winter sun on the northern horizon.

Sikkim is a perennial holiday favourite, especially amongst Bengali tourists, who flock to the state no matter what...