New Delhi, March 4 -- It's called Bad Boy Martini. The cocktail at the restobar For The Record (FTR) in Goa was born last year when its founder and chef, Buland Shukla, had paan cravings and sought to create a Betel Leaf Margarita. Shukla took betel leaves, cardamom, fennel, and rose petals - and, in the spirit of adventure, mixed in some prawns. He blended them together and let them ferment for half a year to create a garum, a fermented fish sauce that was eventually used in a Martini. The first sip feels light on the palate, but the umami burst quickly takes over, balanced with vermouth that leaves faint traces of the sea as the drink washes down your throat.

Across Goa, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and Kolkata, a select few bars are experimenti...