India, March 7 -- Two weeks ago, somebody from The World's 50 Best Restaurants got in touch with me. Each year, 50 Best gives an award to a restaurant to watch (It is actually called "One To Watch") at the annual 50 Best in Asia ceremony. This year, they said, the award would go to a restaurant "that will be relevant to your market".

They were happy to tell me who the winner was on the condition that I not write about it (and sign a non-disclosure agreement to that effect) until the official announcement was made on March 6.

I was intrigued. An Indian restaurant had won this award? Who could it be?

I thought of the obvious suspects. Mumbai's Papa's. Prateek Sadhu's Naar, high up in the hills. I messaged Prateek. It was not him, he resp...