India, June 13 -- It pains me to say this, but when it comes to food, Delhi has lost out. Bengaluru is now the food capital of India. And Mumbai is the only other city where exciting things are happening.

Part of Delhi's problem has been a lack of space. That has eased somewhat with the opening of a new restaurant hub in South Delhi called Eldeco Centre. I haven't been to all of the Eldeco places but I have eaten at four of them.

6 Ballygunge Place is an outpost of the celebrated Kolkata restaurant. It has enthusiastic young chefs, and when I went, soon after it opened (for Sunday lunch) it was packed out with joyful Bongs. Years of living in Kolkata taught me that the standard Bong response to restaurants serving their own cuisine has ...