India, Jan. 12 -- Here's how to cover the cliches but also go beyond them to appreciate the special nuances of this part of one of India's premier cities. South Mumbai is the part of the city where Mumbai first learned how to breathe, trade, build, worship, protest, celebrate, and reinvent itself, and every time I walk through its streets, I feel like I'm tracing the footsteps of centuries. This is the old city, the original island core, where colonial-era buildings rise beside Irani cafes that still smell of buttered brun maska, where fishermen mend their nets not far from luxury hotels, and where some of the most iconic places to visit in South Mumbai sit quietly next to everyday residential lanes. What makes South Mumbai unforgettable ...