India, Sept. 29 -- As the beat of the dhak echoed through New Delhi's very own Mini Bengal-as Chittaranjan Park is fondly known-I found myself swept up in a tide of festive energy, on a visit to the CR Park pandals last year. I was jostling through the crowd, elbow to elbow with fellow devotees, devouring plates of luchi-aloo and crispy bhetki fry at food stalls run by the local Durga Puja Samiti. I'm not exaggerating when I say the fish was unlike anything I'd ever tasted; delicate, spiced to perfection, and fried to a golden crunch. And the pandal was no less spectacular, coming alive with the unmistakable joy of the season.

Sure, Kolkata is the throbbing heart of Pujo festivities in the country, but across India, Bengali communities h...