India, Jan. 11 -- As a frequent national park traveler and outdoor photographer, I've logged hundreds of miles in America's public lands-yet one jaunt, in particular, still stands out to me: The vertiginous journey down to the base of the Grand Canyon.

I trekked it in December 2023 with plans and a permit to camp at Bright Angel Campground, a scenic cottonwood-shaded hideaway just near the famed Phantom Ranch (the only lodging on the world wonder's floor). Then, two days before my trip, a miracle happened: One last-minute reservation became available for Phantom Ranch.

The ranch digs typically book out over a year in advance, but if you're lucky, you can either get in via the lottery or a last-minute opening. This made the grueling but...