India, June 25 -- As we leave behind the structured beauty of Muscat-the grandeur of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the pristine elegance of the Royal Opera House, and the luxury of the House of Amouage -the swelling ruggedness of the terrain begins to feel almost ominous. Yet, as our group approaches Jebel Akhdar, the setting sun lends the mountains a touch of romanticism. The confounding mix of nature's raw minimalism and the warmth of its inhabitants becomes clear the following morning, as we-a group of women journalists-traverse the Al Hajar mountain range. To reach the tiny village of Al Suwgra-one of the oldest cliffside settlements in these 80-million-year-old mountains-our city legs and lungs are put immediately to the test. Tha...