India, Nov. 30 -- Nainital was finally within reach. After months of Delhi's relentless clutter, I was quite desperate to step away-to unclog the lungs, unhook the mind, and remember what real air felt like. I had been longing for Nainital: the lake, the mountains, the Kumaoni cuisine, the promise of a gentler rhythm.so my husband and I boarded the train to the hill station with the naive optimism of people who believe they will see the world through a bay window-a wide, sweeping Himalayan panorama worthy of a travel brochure. What we got instead was a pane so thickly layered with coagulated grime that it resembled an archaeological specimen. The only "view" was a murky blur, and every now and then, the ghostly outline of a discarded chip...