India, June 14 -- Author and screenwriter Advaita Kala will write an occasional column for The Sunday Guardian.

There are restaurants you go to for the food. And then there are restaurants you go to for the feeling or as Gen Z would call it "the feels". Fujiya, perched on the leafy embassy-strewn stretch of Malcha Marg in Delhi, casually falls into the second category. Of course, it serves food - and plenty of it, mostly Indo-Chinese with a loyal clientele who swear by the butter garlic prawns and chilli chicken - but that's not why you go there. You go for the time travel. Step into Fujiya and it's as if someone pressed pause on 1994. Not in a curated, intentional way that today's hipster cafes strive for - no Edison bulbs, no artisanal...