Srinagar, May 10 -- The bus is not merely a mode of transport in Kashmir. It is theatre, tension, poetry, and pure improvisation on wheels.

Anything with a vaguely rectangular shape and the ability to carry more than a dozen people qualifies as a bus. But don't be fooled by the humble metal chassis or the faded paint job with its peeling stickers that say things like "Smile is Sunnah" or "Gulmarg Express."

This is not an ordinary vehicle. This is Kashmir's social centrifuge, a daily referendum on personal space, patience, and negotiation skills.

At the heart of this kinetic drama is the Kaleenar. Part conductor, part ringmaster, part airborne gymnast. He doesn't merely collect fare. He conducts the orchestra.

Perched at the door with ...