Srinagar, May 18 -- In the narrow alleys of Downtown Srinagar, the past doesn't just linger, it lives. Houses lean into each other as if in conversation. The Jhelum River curls nearby, steady and sil... Read More
Srinagar, May 18 -- The sun was already hot by the time the villagers began to gather. It was a Sunday morning in mid-May, and the spring water shimmered under the sky in Panzath, a quiet village tuck... Read More
Srinagar, May 18 -- It was during a wedding in Srinagar few winters back that I first noticed it, not the lavish trami or the crackling kangri, but the absence of something quieter, more invisible. T... Read More
Srinagar, May 18 -- The year I turned fourteen, winter arrived with the quietude of an old man breathing. In our village near Budgam, snow covered the almond groves and roofs with a kind of forgetfuln... Read More
Srinagar, May 18 -- He slowed down at a certain point on the riverbank. "This is where," he said, "the bodies were pulled from." Then the car stopped, and the driver announced the arrival. On my rig... Read More
Srinagar, May 17 -- A few years ago, I stood inside a small enclosure at Dachigam National Park, staring into the half-open mouth of a Himalayan black bear. The bear was sedated, its breathing slow bu... Read More
Srinagar, May 17 -- It was just after noon when I stepped into the shrine. The scent of rosewater and the faint rustle of prayer threads filled the air. People came and went with folded hands and hurr... Read More
Srinagar, May 17 -- It was just after noon when I stepped into the shrine. The scent of rosewater and the faint rustle of prayer threads filled the air. People came and went with folded hands and hurr... Read More
Srinagar, May 17 -- When you arrive in Kashmir, the first thing that strikes you isn't the snow-capped mountains or the scent of pine in the air. It's the silence. Not the kind that unsettles, but th... Read More
Srinagar, May 17 -- So when I finally got the chance to visit this April, I was excited in a way I hadn't been in years. I travelled from Malaysia with a sense of wonder, ready to experience the famou... Read More