Singapore, Sept. 25 -- PORK SATAY GOES LEGIT

People here talk very casually about hawkers. When we do that, we're referring to people who operate in hawker or food centres.

Ah Pui - real name Ang Boon Ee - was a hawker in the true sense of the word. The 64-year-old used to ply the streets of Tiong Bahru with his pushcart, selling pork satay. He kept getting busted, of course. This is Singapore after all.

My friends and I would have him grill satay at house parties and it was always the highlight of our meals. His satay - he does only pork - is nonpareil.

Since August last year, he has joined a group of entrepreneurs who run a cafe in Pearl's Hill Terrace, a laid-back enclave perched on top of a hill. It used to house the operational...