Hyderabad, July 4 -- There's no religious compulsion behind it, nor any theological endorsement. Yet the allure of Dum kay Roat during Muharram remains irresistible. Much like haleem, which finds prominence in Ramzan despite having no connection to fasting, roat too enjoys iconic status in the month of mourning. Hyderabadis wouldn't have it any other way.

Come Muharram, long before the actual Youm-e-Ashoora arrives, queues begin to form outside famous eateries like Subhan Bakery in Nampally, Pista House in Shalibanda, and Karachi Bakery in Mozamjahi Market and other confectioners in the city. People eagerly await the season's first batch of this thick, sweet, richly baked delicacy. What is more, they are willing to wait in serpentine lin...