Rabat, July 21 -- I admit the process confused me at first. What sort of seafood restaurant doesn't have any fish on the menu? Speaking of menus, why can't I find one? Where is all this delicious-looking food coming from if I can't order anything?

Fish market in Essaouira

The answer, explained the Essaouiri couple seated next to us, enjoying a hearty plate of grilled sardines on a sunny Sunday afternoon, was simple.

First, you head to a fish market to pick out whatever sort of seafood your little heart desires. Second, bring it to one of the many eateries in the seaside town which specialize in cooking your catch to order. Third, sit down and enjoy the freshest meal you've had in ages.

fishermen in Essaouira fishing market

It was the...