New Delhi, Oct. 22 -- I hadn't heard of Maharashtra's Tipeshar wildlife sanctuary till it made news a few months ago because a tigress had given birth to six cubs and-best of all-they had all survived. I made my way to the tiny sanctuary, less than 150 sq km, one weekend, expecting to see not just one tiger but seven. I didn't see any tigers, though I saw a sloth bear and plenty of birds, and learned valuable lessons about women in conservation.

Yavatmal district, where the wildlife sanctuary is located, is usually in the news for farmer suicides, and I expected harsh terrain. Instead, there was greenery all around-the monsoon had worked its magic and the forest was in bloom. During a morning safari, I encountered two forest guards, walk...