New Delhi, Jan. 4 -- Winter in Gujarat signals the arrival of tuver, fresh pigeon peas tucked inside tiny pale green pods. For a few short months, the legume becomes an obsession, making its way into everything from everyday shaak (vegetable dishes) to celebratory farsan (snacks) and kadhi. Home cooks stuff the peas into ghughra (fried pastry) and kachoris, toss them into undhiyu (mixed vegetables), or stir them into spiced gravies thickened with buttermilk and besan (chickpea flour).

"The earthy sweetness of tuver, captured by slow cooking it with garlic, chilli, and a dash of jaggery, captures the essence of Gujarati comfort food: simple, seasonal, and layered with taste and texture," says Nimita Shah, a home chef who runs a meal and s...