New Delhi, Feb. 23 -- "We do it naked, usually."

I am visiting my cousin, Valerie, in her married home in Helsinki. It's my first day and my body, aided by several layers of thermals and winter wear, is still adjusting to Finland's snow and cold. As my first initiation into local life, she's teaching me about that very quintessential Finnish tradition, saunas.  

Before this holiday, I have to confess, I didn't like saunas. It didn't make sense to willingly sweat it out in a hot room when I live in a place that gives you that experience, almost daily, and for free. The few times I tried a sauna, I couldn't bear the heat beyond minutes. At massages, I would skip the steam room.

Then I found myself in Helsinki, my first time seeing ...