New Delhi, June 13 -- During the 1970s, restaurants in Maharashtra had to segregate alcohol-serving areas from the rest of the dining space or family room. As a patron, one needed a permit from the state government to drink in these "permit rooms".

"In contrast, quarter bars, which catered primarily to male patrons and served only chakna (bar snacks), developed a seedier reputation," says Aditya Hegde, co-founder of Permit & Co in Mumbai. On the other hand, Goan tavernas were neighbourhood watering holes that catered to different working communities-the ones near the beach were for fisherfolk, those near the fields were for farmers, in coconut groves for toddy tappers, and so on. They generally served feni and seasonal urrak as the main ...