New Delhi, Oct. 4 -- The ground rules for exploring prehistoric cave paintings are simple: "If you come across any baby goats, you cannot pick one up and take home, no matter how cute."

My friend Milena continues sternly. "It will be a huge hassle for Gustav to drive all the way back here to return it."

Gustav Imam, our guide to the tribal art of Hazaribag in Jharkhand, smiles.

"Also gents toilet to the left," continues Milena. "Ladies to the right."

Left on the hill slope means sal trees. Right is more sal trees. As we trot off in our respective directions into the forest, it occurs to me this art exploration trip was going to be rather different from a visit to the National Gallery of Modern Art (NGMA), Delhi.

I had first encounter...