New Delhi, March 14 -- "Am I speaking fucking Gujarati?" snaps an impeccably well-heeled Tan France, his irritation as crisply tailored as his suit. It's a line that arrives early in Deli Boys, and in that one moment-equal parts haughty, dismissive, and hilarious-we get a taste of what this Hulu series (streaming in India on Jiostar) is up to. Here is a show that knows its brownness, wears it effortlessly, and jostles it among the usual roster of racist mob-movie insults. For if you're going to have organized crime, it might as well be properly seasoned.

Created by Abdullah Saeed, Deli Boys takes a familiar premise-hapless inheritors of a crime empire-and injects it with a spicy, subcontinental spin. Our protagonists are two feckless bro...