New Delhi, Sept. 26 -- Kolkata has a storied food culture, yet the city is often accused of being nostalgia-drunk, unadventurous, notoriously price conscious and reluctant to embrace the new, unlike Mumbai and Delhi. Until a few years ago, eating out here usually meant a trip to Park Street vintages like Mocambo or Peter Cat, Tangra favourites serving Chinese food or good-old biryani joints. Although new restaurants opened, not many survived.

Over the last three to four years, though, there has been a proliferation of restaurants and cafes in residential neighbourhoods, in heritage buildings, and on rooftops overlooking some of the city's best views. National chains like Social Restaurants and the Olive Group have finally opened. But wha...