New Delhi, Oct. 24 -- "The spot you are standing on is where many people say they've felt a presence," my tour guide, Ilma Saifi, says softly. Without waiting to hear what she says next, I dash towards a large group of cheerful tourists, standing a few metres away, admiring the 16th century Mughal complex we are in.

I don't believe in ghosts, but if you are in a location that's been on several Most Haunted Places of Delhi lists, it's easy to get a little creeped out. Tucked away in a quiet corner of the sprawling 200-acre Mehrauli Archaeological Park, the red sandstone complex houses the Jamali Kamali mosque and mausoleum, named for Jamali, a Sufi saint and poet, who is interred beside what many believe is his male lover. It is the start...