New Delhi, April 19 -- If vegetables had a pageant, and "Miss Blandness" was a title, ash gourd would win it hands down, with lauki (bottle gourd) as the close runner-up. These are the wallflowers of the produce world-pale, watery and lacking strong opinions. Yet Indian kitchens have infused main-character energy into them. It seems like a vengeance move-take the blandest vegetable and turn it into a superstar.

Why else would the humble ash gourd find itself in festive feasts, temple kitchens and iconic sweets?

Most children don't like gourds. They won't eat it unless mashed and sneakily blended into food. I'm guilty (and proud) of regularly smuggling mashed pumpkin into my son's weaning meals. Later, it found its way into pasta sauces,...