New Delhi, Dec. 7 -- Recently, while working on a coffee story, I couldn't help but feel that Indian speciality coffee is driven by enthusiasts who are curious, invest in equipment, spend on good coffee, and talk about it. It made me wonder what tea needed to inspire that same love. This month, I saw that change is brewing, still nascent, but unmistakable.

Even five years ago, the idea of "speciality" tea (styles beyond the staples, like the oolong, white tea, and several kinds of high-grade black and green teas) drew blank stares; mass green tea and blends claiming to boost immunity dominated the shelves. Handmade or hand-rolled teas were a lesser-known secret. Cut to today and much has changed.

In November, I hosted a tea session for ...