New Delhi, April 5 -- Kaunsa chahiye-pani wala ya malai wala (Which do you want-just water or water as well as coconut flesh)?"

As a child, this question from the neighbourhood tender coconut vendor always left me puzzled. How did they know what was inside-just water or water with malai? And if there was malai, would it be delicate, jiggly pudding-like or the thicker, almost mature coconut flesh?

They had their ways, of course. A swift slice of the outer husk turned into a biodegradable scoop and you could sit on a makeshift bench, leisurely scraping out the malai, rehydrating yourself while getting a dose of healthy fats.

A few months ago, after a long sun-soaked walk in Goa, I stopped for a tender coconut. Rs.90 for a small one came ...