New Delhi, March 28 -- The sound of the sea was music-rock music. Hum, roll, crash, cymbal, hum, roll. We were on the shore, just behind the surf, in complete darkness. When we started sand-walking, the moon had been a scythe in the sky, cutting the dark only a little. Now, the moon had set. The stars were out. I was walking blind.

My marine biologist friend said to me: Close your eyes/ press them with your hands for two minutes/ when you open them again/ you will be able to see in the dark. In that dreamscape, it sounded like a magical spell. I raised my grubby hands-brined in sea salt-to my suddenly tender eyes, carrying out the spell. Two minutes later, I could see. A little. There were two layers of waves in front of us, crashing maj...