New Delhi, June 28 -- Narrow lanes where history lingers, vibrant bazaars, and centuries-old temples-Amritsar has always been a city of stories. As the largest city on the Indian side of Punjab, it's known not just as the spiritual home of Sikhism, but also as a destination for serious food lovers.

I was in the city last week and, unsurprisingly, spent a good deal of time eating. One local favourite that stood out was the aam papad. These chewy sheets of sun-dried mango pulp-sometimes sweet, sometimes spiced-are a popular treat across Punjab. While the region doesn't grow many mangoes, it certainly knows how to preserve the fruit and enjoy it year-round.

But while the aam papad holds its own, India's mangoes are facing a tough time. Onc...