New Delhi, July 26 -- "You must meet Marika at her farmhouse then - her energy is infectious," grinned Guro, our driver. We had just confessed our desire to taste a slice of Georgia, not just see it. In a country that's globally famed for its historic traditions of wine and cheese, every region fiercely claims its flavour is the best. But if you ask around, most will point west, to Samegrelo, for the boldest bites. Home to the Mingrelian people, who speak their own Kartvelian language, the food is generous with not only spices, herbs and cheese, but also love for the community.

Swiftly, we headed towards Chkhoria, a village just 20 minutes northwards from the town of Zugdidi, building an appetite for a sumptuous lunch. All we knew was th...