India, May 31 -- It's been a good week for Indian food. Okay, I'll rephrase that. It's been a great week; the best I can remember in a long time. By now we are all aware that Tresind Studio in Dubai has won three stars from the Michelin guide. So yes, that is the headline this week. It is a huge and spectacular achievement. But there are other winners so let's wait a little to get to Tresind Studio. What we might have missed in our exultation over Tresind Studio's triumph is that Michelin added only two new restaurants to its list of one star places in Dubai. And both those newly starred restaurants have Indian chefs. Let's start with Jamavar, which is a true Indian success story. Jamavar is a brand owned by Leela hotels and the Indian Jamavars are all located at Leela properties. The Leela chain was famously founded by the late Captain CP Krishnan Nair and named after his wife Leela. After Captain Nair passed on, his sons sold the hotel company to Brookfield under whom the chain has continued to flourish and expand. But Dinesh Nair, one of Captain Nair's two sons, who had already made a fortune in the garment industry, retained an interest in hospitality and opened a French restaurant in one of London's most exclusive squares. When that did not do well, he fell back on his first love, Indian food, and leased the rights to the Jamavar name (for restaurants abroad) from Leela hotels. He also made the smart move of asking his daughter Samyukta to run Jamavar. Samyukta proved to be a hospitality natural. Not only did Jamavar win a Michelin star but Samyukta opened many other restaurants across cuisines: MiMi Mei Fair, Koyn, Bombay Bustle and now Nipotina. Then, the Nairs took Jamavar to Doha. Michelin has been tightfisted with Doha. Only two restaurants have Michelin stars. One is run by Alain Ducasse. The other is Jamavar. When the Nairs opened the Dubai Jamavar a few months ago, I went there for dinner and wrote here about how good it was. But Dinesh and Samyukta believed it would take at least a year for Michelin to notice them. They were wrong. Last week the Dubai Jamavar got a star. So all three international Jamavars now have Michelin stars, a feat unequalled by any other Indian restaurant brand. Much of the success of the Jamavars is down to the low-key but superb chef who runs them: Surender Mohan. Surender has worked for some version of Jamavar for 25 years (since the Leela days). At the Michelin ceremony, his speech got the biggest applause of the evening when he thanked his family and talked about how chefs never devote as much time as they should to those they love. In Dubai, the kitchen also benefits from the brilliance of Purushottam Naidu who was trained by Mrs Leela Nair. Surender and Purushottam are old hands but you may not have heard of young Abhiraj Khatwani, who is notoriously low-profile. Even when his Manao won a star within a few months of opening, he looked shy and embarrassed on stage. I first met Abhiraj last year when he came to Delhi to cook at a Culinary Culture pop-up with Dubai's most celebrated chef and restaurateur Mohamad Orfali. Mohamad told me he was partnering with Abhiraj to open a modern Thai restaurant in Dubai. A Thai restaurant with an Indian chef? I was intrigued. The next time I was in Dubai, Mohamad took me for a pre-opening tasting to Manao, as the restaurant was going to be called. I loved the food, was impressed by Abhiraj's intensity and his passion for Thai cuisine and culture, and wrote all about it here. The restaurant opened a little later, became a big hit and five months later it has its first Michelin star. Abhiraj also won Michelin's award for Young Chef of the Year. He is just 30 years old. We will be hearing much more about him in the years ahead. That leaves us with the biggie of the night. I first went to Tresind in December 2014, a few months after it opened, and raved about it in this column. It may have been the first serious review of Tresind in the Indian media and as much as I want to brag about spotting it so early in its existence, I have to admit that a decade ago even I didn't believe that Indian restaurants could ever get three Michelin stars. That's changed at least partly because of restaurateurs like Tresind's Bhupender Nath who recognised Himanshu's talent, believed in it and nurtured his skills. Nobody else would have backed a chef so completely. Without Nath's commitment Tresind would never have come close to winning three stars. If we had more restaurateurs like Nath, we would have more Michelin-starred restaurants. (Nath also owns the vegetarian Avatara with an ex-Tresind chef and former Himanshu protege in the kitchen. It also has a Michelin star.) Another reason for the greater global success of Indian food is because Michelin has recognised the excellence of Indian cuisines and Indian chefs. It is now giv- ing Indian food a platform it has never had before. And most important: a new generation is taking over. Himanshu, Samyukta and Abhiraj are all under 40. Their generation will change the image of Indian chefs and Indian restaurants forever....