India, March 18 -- In the Yamuna's 52km journey through Delhi, Wazirabad marks one of its most pivotal junctures. Here, the river retains a semblance of life, still waging a losing battle against the toxic load of sewage and industrial waste that will soon turn it into a lifeless drain.

The scene at Wazirabad - though a far cry from the pristine strawberry fields in upstream Palla that we wrote about in the first part of this series - is the last vision of the revered Yamuna as a sacred lifeline. Dozens of fishermen row their rickety wooden boats into the water, skillfully throwing their nets in search of the day's catch. On the riverbanks, families gather at ancient ghats, offering prayers, taking ritual dips, and even sipping the water...