India, Oct. 31 -- I was in Helsinki last month, as part of a Climate Solutions visit organised by the Finnish government. I was hoping the airport taxi driver would be chatty, that he'd tell me what to expect from the weather, at least list the good spots to eat. Ali didn't do any of that. Instead, he told me how he escaped the conflict back home in Somalia and ended up in Finland. He pointed out the Parliament building en route only because I asked. But less than a minute before the ride ended, Ali pointed to one gigantic building and said, "You should visit the public library. It's good."

No one expects taxi drivers to recommend a library above all else. I was intrigued.

And so, I wandered there the next morning, my breath catching on...