India, March 8 -- Captains lived here, just don't ask what kind of captains-pleads machine repairer Saif. His workshop is scooped into a lonesome stretch of Gali Captain Wali in Old Delhi. This afternoon, the narrow lane is empty. All the machines in Saif's workshop are lying mended, the repairer says. That's why he is standing idle by his counter, leaning out purposelessly into the darkened passage. Rubbing his forehead, he says that "perhaps these were the captains of the Indian Air Force...now no captains live here." Suddenly, a side door opens and a man emerges. The same moment, a third person steps into the lane. The scene no longer looks lonesome. See photo.

Gali Captain Wali is like a plotless art house movie that keeps the viewer i...