India, July 12 -- Chandni Chowk is extraordinary-not just for its temples, mosques, churches, or because it is home to one of the most important gurudwaras in Sikhism. Or because it harbours Old Delhi's culinary shrines for jalebi, ghewar, milk cake, dahi bhalla, paratha, shikanji, lassi, etc. Or because it has the Red Fort, or its romantic name suggests a moonlit square. The reason that makes this much-dissected district truly extraordinary has, until now, never been laid out-not even by the all-knowing Google or the smart-aleck ChatGPT. It is this: an unbelievably massive number of streets drain into Chandni Chowk. As if the kismet of all these moody, idiosyncratic galiyan of Purani Dilli were bound to end up as tributaries to this immort...