India, March 2 -- At first glance, Shantaram Chawl Complex, tucked away in a nondescript lane off a crowded road in Girgaum, seems dwarfed by upcoming shiny highrises around it. But the space is a world unto itself - an afternoon walk through the chawl reveals the muggy air infused with the aroma of varan-bhaat, women putting their household laundry to dry, schoolkids making purposeful strides alongside their mothers clutching their satchels and a group of men indulging in deep conversations in street corners.

The quietude of the settlement, which was built 125 years ago, is ever so delicately offset by an array of cars and two-wheelers, representing the growing prosperity of its residents.

Residents of the 180 households are unwitting ...