India, Jan. 17 -- The ideal Indian plate is dal, vegetable curry, chapati or rice, curd, chutney, and a dessert. At least, that is what we are told or shown. Then, there's the classic debate of north Indian roti versus south Indian rice. However, in regions such as Marathwada, the majority of the working class of Mahars and Mangs eat dry rotis of jowar/bajra with meat, vegetables, and pulses with onion, garlic and crushed peanut. The belief there is that rice fattens you while chapati, with its glutenous fibre, caused stomach ache and bloating.

Shahu Patole's excellent and very engaging book for gourmands, The Dalit Kitchen of Marathwada presents the dietary history and culture of the dishes it lists. Indeed, social records and community...