India, Jan. 22 -- Which Old Delhi monument is so grand and so visible from all parts of the historic quarter that it appears to symbolise the entire Old Delhi? It is not the great Red Fort, which lies on the outer limits of the Walled City; a good part of it anyway destroyed in the 1857 uprising. That monument is the Jama Masjid. The sandstone edifice is visible from the rooftops of every neighbourhood in Purani Dilli. During the Emergency years, in the 1970s, some members of the ruling party wanted to demolish parts of the Walled City, to create an unhindered view of the monument. "I want Jama Masjid to be clearly visible from Turkman Gate," said the then prime minister's powerful son Sanjay Gandhi, referring to one of the Walled City gate...