India, Jan. 26 -- Amidst the deafening clamour of Panjim, Goa's capital, and the shimmering lights of the casinos afloat on the Mandovi river, there stands a beautiful building clothed in indigo blue. The windows wear white painted trims and brown awning, and tiny steps lead into Goa Customs & GST Museum (formerly Goa Customs & Excise Museum), the only one of its kind in India - a museum that traces the history of taxation and the battle of wits between customs officials and smugglers.

Currency hidden in the hollows of a book. Extra layer in the shoe sole for precious gems. Tubes of a bicycle tyre. Tiffin box with high-cost watches. Walking canes stuffed with diamonds. Ship hulls. Toilet commode with contraband goods. Headlight of a car....