India, May 16 -- .

This is only the second retrospective of House of Worth ever held, 60 years after the first in New York. (Above and top) An electric green-and-navy-blue tea gown made for the French socialite the countess Elisabeth Greffulhe in 1896-97.

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An evening gown of large white lilies against black velvet, known as the Robe aux lys, also made for by the countess Greffulhe. The dress was embellished with pearls, sequins, rhinestones and silver thread.

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In the 1850s, Worth began to sew tags into his designs, bearing his name. This made him, essentially, the inventor of the "fashion label". This - and his dramatic designs - is part of why historians consider him the father of couture.

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Another thing Worth did differently t...