India, Aug. 15 -- Long before it appeared in lookbooks and fashion week runways, khadi was spun by hand in homes across India. Made from cotton, silk or wool, the fabric became a political statement in the early 20th century when Mahatma Gandhi urged people to weave their own cloth instead of buying imported textiles. The charkha, or spinning wheel, symbolised self-reliance, and khadi became a daily act of resistance.

Post-independence, khadi shed some of its political charge, taking on a more utilitarian role. Through the '70s and '80s, it was sold largely through government emporiums - plain kurtas, handloom saris, ceremonial attire. It was heritage-heavy, often austere.

Today, that image is shifting. A younger generation of designers...