India, April 12 -- The centuries-old Walled City retains almost nothing of its original character. Even so, its 'hoods and streets preserve within their names a sense of Old Delhi's past. The names have mostly been derived from particular people as well as particular communities who inhabited the historic quarter during its early days. Indeed, these place-names and the contemporary life they contain tell us simultaneously of the way we were, and of the way we may turn out to be tomorrow.

But what to say about a Purani Dilli gali that has no name?

The peaceful residential lane lies within the otherwise noisy Kucha Chelan, which is a massive sprawl of homely streets and crowded bazars. This afternoon, the lane is deserted, though it juts ...