India, Feb. 4 -- Her life is hectic. She gets up early in the morning, prepares the household for the new day. Then she marches out to relaunch herself as a hyperlocal entrepreneur.

Sunita runs a paratha establishment, close to her home. Her stall in Old Delhi's Sitaram Bazar consists of a simple cart. This early afternoon, the cart is crowded with a two-burner gas range, a couple of metal pans-one is filled with spiced aloo mash (paratha stuffing!), the other pan is covered with a lid. A platter is filled with kneaded atta. A plastic box is crammed with sliced onions and hari mirchi pickle. Then there's the chakla-belan to roll out the parathas.

Sunita's stall was founded more than 20 years ago by mother-in-law Geeta. "My saas expired ...