India, July 6 -- Dear Reader,

The traffic ahead of us has stopped. It's been two hours since we left Manali, on our way to Dharamsala, but now we can go no further. Blocking the narrow mountain road ahead of us is a truck, its wheels jammed tight in sticky wet mud.

Drivers from the cars and buses around us mill around in groups outside their vehicles. It looks like we are in for a long wait. Never mind, I tell my city self - we are on a pilgrimage to meet the Dalai Lama on his 90th birthday- surely the first lesson is patience.

Then slowly, a giant JCB earthmover lumbers in. Ripples of excitement spread through the crowd. Before our incredulous eyes, a hook is attached to the truck, the goods carrier is lifted magically as if it were a...