India, July 10 -- This muggy afternoon, a profusely sweating man is spray painting a sequence of words on the slats of a bench's backrest. Using large stencils, he is painting in white, ostensibly intending to give the bench a name. The first letter is B. The brown bench is plonked outside Madan Cafe, here in backpackers' Paharganj. The man at work is Aditya. His father had founded the cafe in the 1970s, just as the Delhi locality was starting to get its first hippies. Indeed, the cafe used to be packed with hippies. What a thing it was, per the old timers, to be in the community of those vanished people. Their hair long, unwashed, tangled and often beaded; the arms tattooed and pierced; the ringed fingers stained with cigarette ash. The hi...