India, Aug. 5 -- Sometimes, an ordinary sight is profoundly telling. This overcast noon, a food vendor is dragging his pushcart along a central Delhi avenue. The words painted on the cart-A-One Veg Biryani-inadvertently summon attention to two contemporary trends. The first is about the city's fetish for a particular lingual expression. The other is the increasing spread of a dish variety that, some argue, violates the essential tenets of that dish's mother recipe. Let's first discuss the matter of A-One. The Oxford dictionary explains it as a colloquial for describing something as "excellent," or "first rate." Whilst biryani, the dictionary explains, is "an originally Indian dish made with highly seasoned rice, and meat or fish, etc." And ...