India, March 18 -- During the day, the marble courtyard stays sparse, serene, and silent. At night, it darkens, growing more silent. Tonight will be an exception. The courtyard shall stay awake with crowds, bright lights, and musical qawwalis.
The Sufi shrine of Hazrat Chirag Dehlavi is today celebrating the 688th urs, or death anniversary, of its saint--in Sufism, a mystic's death is not mourned but celebrated, marking his union with the beloved, who is God.
Despite its status as an important centre of Sufism, the dargah in south Delhi rarely draws throngs of pilgrims or tourists. Maybe because it is not easily approachable, ensconced beyond a dense warren of houses, shops, stalls and alleys. In modern times, the historic shrine has grow...