Pakistan, June 28 -- The seals bask in the autumn sunshine far down below in the cove and a few are out in the waves, right among the swimmers, as we take in the spectacular view from the terrace bar of the George's at The Cove restaurant in La Jolla.

The obligatory blondes on Rollerblades glide by along the coastal road, while two menacing-looking seagulls eye my fish tacos with intent. They, at least, are certainly not making any concessions to the famous laid-back Southern California vibe.

Some Americans can be sniffy about San Diego, of which La Jolla is one of its finer neighbourhoods. It's not Los Angeles or San Francisco - that's what people say of California's third great Pacific city. To which I would say, it's all the better f...