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The Sparrow's Sorrow in Kashmir

Srinagar, Dec. 5 -- The sun was relentless, pouring down over the valley in waves that felt almost alive. Sweat ran down my face, soaking my shirt, slipping into my hair, and I felt as though I had wa... Read More


Kashmir Copied Finland's Classroom Assistant, Then Gave Her a Mop

Srinagar, Nov. 21 -- Jammu and Kashmir's education department followed the best in the business. The United States, the United Kingdom, Finland, Canada and Japan all place a second adult in pre-prim... Read More


Kashmir's Golden Season With a Dark Side

Srinagar, Oct. 3 -- Ruptured walnut husks lie scattered underfoot. The cicadas croak in long, musky waves. Their sound, sweet but insistent, tells me that Harud, our autumn, has arrived again. It co... Read More