India, Aug. 20 -- It may not enjoy the popularity of Bali but Canggu has the perfect waves for the novice surfer. The writer signed up for a lesson in its waters and found her bohemian self on its sands.

"Are you ready, Kirana?," boomed Abtu, my 23-year-old Balinese surf instructor, as he held my longboard, ready to help me catch the wave that was looming behind us. I nodded impatiently, positioned myself on the board, and before I knew it, was belting towards the shore. I foolishly believed that I would finally be able to stand up on my board this time if I went through all the movements that Abtu had taught me. Once again, however, I shot off the board and into the warm waters of the Indian Ocean for the 10th time in a row. When my he...